ESPERANZA

Tue Eve, 19 Feb 08, MS Nordnorge, Antarctic Peninsula Area

ESPERANZA

It had been our hope
To land at the Bay called Hope.
That plan they had to amend
Because of too much wind.
But we didn’t mope.

The weather changes very fast. It cleared up, and we even saw partial blue sky for a little while during which it was very bright.

On the way to the active Argentine base Esperanza, we passed very close an ice float which was two ways interesting. Two penguins were standing on it. A seal was swimming around beside it. The seal had left his mess on top of it. So I guess that ice “belonged” to the seal. I took some pictures but failed to “capture” the seal.

We stopped in Hope Bay and preparations were begun for our landing. It was fairly clear. We could see the base clearly and the beautiful mountains behind it. I got a couple of photos of the base. It looks like a tiny village with lots of basic buildings painted red.

Then it was announced that we would not be landing because it was too windy. Instead we would cruise through an area that has a lot of big icebergs.

And indeed it did. There was one particularly large iceberg that we slowed down for, got right next to, and went around two sides of.

It got really windy. But I finished out my estimated six miles of walking on deck 5.

Wherever we are now, we can see nothing but ocean and an occasional large iceberg. (No land in sight.)

From the handout, here’s what we would have seen:

“The Argentine Base Esperanza was established at Hope Bay in 1951 and has been a focal point for the Argentine sovereignty claim to the Antarctic Peninsula area ever since. In the late 1970s, they began bringing women and children to live here year round and the first Antarctic birth was recorded here in 1978. The base consists of a series of low, orange-colored buildings including a school, community center, post office, and chapel as well as laboratories. There may be souvenirs for sale in American dollars and Argentine pesos in the main building. As this is a military base, tours will be guided by base staff (bring your Spanish phrasebook!) and wandering off alone is discouraged. Hope Bay was named in honor of three men from the Swedish South Pole Expedition 1901-03 who spent a grueling winter marooned here surviving on nothing but seal meat, penguin stew, and a single bottle of Aquavit. The small stone hut that they built can still be seen and has been somewhat restored by members from Base Esperanza.”

LECTURE:

In addition to deck walking and iceberg watching and photographing, I attended the fill-in lecture on “Flippers, Fur, and Feathers, an Introduction to Antarctic Wildlife.” I was able to stay somewhat awake this time. Rosalita covered several varieties of Albatross, Petrels, Prions, Fulmars, the Snowy Sheathbill which we saw at Port Lockroy, Kelp Gulls which we saw this morning at Brown Bluff, Skuas which we saw a Cuverville Island, Arctic Terns, Antarctic Terns, the Blue-Eyed Shag, Cormorants which we saw at Almirante Brown, the Southern Elephant Seal, the Crabeater Seal, the Leopard Seal which we saw this morning at Brown Bluff, Killer Whales (Orcas), Minke Whales, and Humpback Whales which we have seen.

PHILIPPINE NIGHT

It was Philippine Night at dinner. Philippine dishes were served. This included a pig roasted whole. The waiting staff is mostly Filipino. The Filipino men wore there Filipino white dress shirts. The Filipino women wore traditional Filipino clothes.

CREW SHOW

Tonight at 10 PM is the “fabulous crew show.” I’ll comment on it in my next entry.

MISCELLANEOUS COMMENTS

When it is windy, it is EXTREMELY windy at the port and starboard corners of the bow. So, when I am deckwalking I don’t go completely around but reverse directions as I near these corners.

Each day we get handouts. The ship provides a one-page handout telling the scheduled activities for the day (“weather and ice permitting”). Nacho, our leader from Vantage, puts out a daily handout of about three-to-six pages of general information relating to Antarctica. I appreciate this. It must take quite a bit of effort on his part. But I’ve been too busy to read them. I intend to read them later.

As I’ve noted, the food is great. The deserts are fantastic, and there are several to choose from, and vanilla, chocolate, and strawberry ice cream is included. There are several kinds of breads, and they are fresh and delicious. I always ask for milk, and it is always very tasty and ice cold.

However, I have developed a craving for a Coke or a Pepsi. But I’ll wait because that would cost more than $3 a glass at the snack bar.

:-)

Bernie